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Wwd ricorda Oscar de la Renta, “in his own words”

Mi è sempre piaciuto Oscar de la Renta, mi ha sempre dato l’impressione di uno “che aveva trovato il suo posto nel mondo”. Tutto sommato poco conosciuto in Italia, si era concentrato sugli Stati Uniti, sua patria d’adozione, e non aveva mai dato l’impressione di voler conquistare l’intero mondo. L’ultimo ricordo che ho è la sua voce al telefono, durante l’intervista ad Anna Wintour che ho citato qualche post fa. Le chiedeva quali fossero i suoi fiori preferiti, per poi farglieli recapitare prima ancora che l’intervista (lampo, peraltro) fosse finita.

Womens Wear Daily (Wwd), il quotidiano americano della moda, lo ha ricordato con tre lunghi articoli. Uno in cui si ripercorre la sua vita e la sua carriera, uno in cui si raccolgono le reazioni alla notizia della sua morte (ci sono anche molti ricordi di italiani, da Giorgio Armani a Donatella Versace, da Mario Boselli a Paolo Zegna) e un terzo composto da citazioni di cose che De la Renta ha detto nel corso del tempo, dal 1963 a oggi. E’ quello che mi è piaciuto di più e ne riporto qui sotto una parte, con la solita ammirazione per il lavoro di Wwd.

“I always design my own hats to complete my fashion thought….I like them slightly mad, like this huge black poppy. Right now I lift the bosom high on coats and dresses…I am using so many high curved belts.” — Oscar de la Renta on his first New York collection for Elizabeth Arden’s Fashion-Able custom department, WWD, 2/25/63

“Women are born free, and I think that they should stay that way.” — in WWD, 11/7/67

“He has inspired many of my fall fabrics. What impresses me the most is how contemporary his color combinations are. Many of the paintings could easily be transferred into prints for fabrics.” — on Gustav Klimt, WWD, 5/7/69

“The shirtdress with matching cardigan is the only way a woman should dress for fall evenings. It’s casual, but elegant. It makes a statement, but is not terribly dressy. And it is very sensual.” — in WWD, 4/26/72

“Nothing is contrived. At night, the clothes should pour like liquid over the body.” — in W, 11/21/75

“The ultimate of a well-dressed man is not to look well-dressed. I think men shouldn’t be noticed.” — in W, 4/13/79

“This customer — the working woman with so many lifestyle needs — is the most important costumer out there today. She’s a new woman, and until now I’ve been paying very little attention to her.” — on adding a bridge collection to his lineup, WWD, 1/10/96

“You need a young eye. Right now, why I love my work every day is because it’s a learning process for me, working with people who are looking at clothes in a different manner than I do. Otherwise, you always go the path you know.” — in W, 10/01

“For me, luxury never left.” — in WWD, 4/21/10

“I am not a loner. I like to be surrounded by people. I like to be contradicted. I like to be challenged on a daily basis. I like to say that the day I say, ‘I have learned it all’ is the day that I should stop.” — in WWD, 6/10/13

“At that time, the designer was the little guy in the back room. I have to give the credit to John Fairchild. He is the one who said, ‘I’m not interested in the manufacturer. I want to know who the guy is who makes that dress.’” — on his start in the U.S., WWD, 6/10/13

“Love. Be curious. Always try to do your best.” — on words to live by, WWD, 6/10/13

“I hate nostalgia. Fashion is about now. I hate to look back. You have to look a little bit back to look forward, but it’s a business where the past doesn’t count. You’re as good as your last collection. You can do 25 great collections and if the last one was a rotten collection — you’re going to be remembered for that rotten collection.” — in WWD, 5/31/14

“‘Fifty years I have been doing this and I think I started yesterday…to come to work every day is a huge, big privilege. And I may be totally wrong, but I think I am a much better designer today. Because I have a much better understanding of my consumer today than I had, say, 40 years ago.’ And because he’s not willing to cede an iota to younger generations of designers — a fact that keeps the de la Renta brand as relevant now as ever. ‘The day I say, “I know it all,” I should stop,’ Oscar says. ‘I think that one of the most important qualities in a human being is curiosity. And competitiveness is part of that curiosity.’” — in WWD, 6/31/14

“I am so overwhelmed that I still can come to work and be as passionate about what I do as Day One. That means a lot.” — in WWD, 6/31/14

  • Lola |

    “Women are born free…”
    Quest’uomo viveva su un altro pianeta.

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